Miso-Sesame Gazpacho, Labneh Foam, Trout Roe

My mom asked what I was cooking the day I first made this. I told her gazpacho, to which she replied, “Gazpacho? In the winter time?”

This gazpacho might not seem like one for the faint of heart (or apparently those who are season-ist), but I find confidence in the fact that my roommate, who was very skeptical about a Euro-Asian-inspired mixture of fruit and vegetables topped with roe, actually really, really liked it. This gazpacho is refreshing, almost spa-like, and light in weight but packed with umami from the kombu dashi anad miso. The labneh foam cuts the salt with some tang, and the optional, but much loved, fish roe is just the icing on the cake. The almonds and tahini create a velvety, rich texture that in turn makes this a little more satisfying than a tomato-based gazpacho, and, in my opinion, very socially acceptable for the winter time.

The flavor of this gazpacho definitely depends on a lot of factors that will vary from cook to cook and kitchen to kitchen. Depending on the brand of kombu, one might be stronger in flavor than another. Cucumber and apple size will also play a part in this. The best advice I can give is to adjust the flavor accordingly:

• Too strong/bitter/robust: add more agave, 1 tsp. at a time

• Overall lacking/bland/no particular flavors are sticking out: add more salt

• Too sweet or acidic: add more salt

• Flat/salty/sweet: add more lemon juice

• The sesame oil and miso flavor should be present, so add more a little at a time if it doesn’t taste like much

• Chunky, gritty, or grainy: keep blending

• Needs to be thicker: add more apple/cucumber or blanched almonds

• Need to be thinner: add more kombu water

Miso-Sesame Gazpacho + Labneh Foam

Serves 4 | Time: 45 minutes

• 4 cups water

• 1 strip dried kombu (about 10 grams)

• 1 scallion

• 1/2 cup silvered almonds

• 2 tbs. white miso paste

• 1/2 tbs. sesame oil

• 3 dashes fish sauce

• 1 tsp. soy sauce

• 1 tbs. agave nectar (can sub granulated sugar)

• 2 tbs. tahini / sesame paste

• 1/2 lemon, juiced

• 1.5 English cucumbers, peeled and de-seeded

• 2 scallions, ends trimmed lightly

• 1 large or 2 small granny smith apples, peeled and cored

• 2 garlic cloves

• 8-10 mint leaves

• Salt to taste

For the Labneh Foam:

• 1/4 cup labneh

• Salt to taste

• Water to thin (if usng a whipped cream dispenser) OR 3 tbs. heavy cream (if using a mixing bowl/whisk)

Garnishes:

• Thinly shaved radish

• Mint leaves

• Toasted sesame seeds

• Trout or salmon roe (optional)

To make the kombu dashi: Combine the kombu, 1 scallion, and water in a small pot OFF heat and let sit for 30 minutes. Move to high heat, bring just below a boil, remove the kombu leaves before the water boils, and let the water simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat, remove scallion, and let cool.

In a separate pot, bring the almonds to a simmer with enough water to cover them. Remove and let soak in the warm water until the almonds are softened and bendible. Strain and set aside.

Place all ingredients except for kombu dashi in a high-powered blender and blend until completely smooth, adding in the kombu dashi slowly until a smooth, velvety just thicker than heavy cream consistency is formed. Refrigerate until chilled and adjust seasoning with more salt, lemon juice, or agave as needed. If a bitter/seaweed flavor is overpowering, add more agave. Letting it chill first will help the flavors settle, that way when you adjust seasoning it will be more accurate.

For the labneh foam:

Whipped Cream Dispenser: Thin out the labneh with water to create a thick  but pourable liquid, slightly thicker than heavy cream. Season with a pinch of salt. Pour into a whipped cream dispenser, charge, shake upside down and away from you vigorously, and whip onto the gazpacho.

Mixing bowl/Whisk: Whip the labne with 3 tbs. heavy cream instead of water, and a pinch of salt, until medium peaks are formed.

Serve gazpacho cold with the labneh foam and garnishes.